在世界上最棒的餐厅吃饭是什么体验

It's just landed the number one spot at the World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards, beating out the likes of Denmark's Noma and Bangkok's Gaggan.

这家餐厅击败了丹麦的诺玛餐厅和曼谷的盖甘餐厅等餐厅,荣登全球50家最佳餐厅的榜首。

But what's it actually like to eat at the much-lauded Mirazur?

但是在广受好评的米拉苏尔餐厅吃东西到底是什么感觉呢?

Situated in the elegant seaside town of Menton in the French Riviera, the clue is in its name.

这座位于法国芒通的里维埃拉优雅海滨小镇的餐厅,线索就在它的名字上。

Mirazur roughly translates as "look at the blue," suggesting a vantage point over the water.

米拉苏尔大致翻译为“看那蓝色”,意味着在水面上的一个有利视角。

And it certainly has one, reached by a winding incline of a road.

它当然有这样的视角,可以通过一个弯曲的斜坡的道路抵达。

Whether driving or walking past, you could easily miss it, as the chic white 1930s rotunda building is almost hidden from the road behind palm trees.

无论是开车还是步行经过,你都很容易错过它,因为上世纪30年代风格别致的白色圆形建筑几乎隐藏在棕榈树后面的道路上。

Mirazur sits at the foot of some pretty dramatic mountains, surrounded by their own gardens with dozens of types of fruits, vegetables, herbs, citrus trees and more that end up on your table, in some cases just minutes after being dug up or picked from a branch.

米拉苏尔坐落在一些非常引人注目的山脚下,周围是他们自己的花园,有几十种水果、蔬菜、草药、柑橘树和更多的树,这些树最终会被放在你的桌子上,在某些情况下,它们被挖出来或从树枝上摘下来几分钟后就会出现在你的桌上。

There are also chickens providing eggs and hives for honey, while some lucky diners get invited by chef Mauro Colagreco to tour the gardens and taste some of the produce first hand, enjoying the heady aromas including wild rosemary, jasmine and their orange orchard.

也有鸡提供鸡蛋和蜂箱蜂蜜,而一些幸运的食客受到厨师毛罗克莱格瑞克的邀请,参观花园,品尝一些第一手的农产品,享受令人陶醉的芳香,包括野生迷迭香,茉莉花和他们的柑橘园。

An open kitchen sits on the lowest of Mirazur's three floors, alongside a lounge and a reception which proudly shows off their accolades.

开放式的厨房位于米拉苏尔酒店三层楼的最低一层,旁边是一个休息室和一个招待会,可以自豪地展示他们的荣誉。

A third Michelin star was added in January.

今年1月,米其林又颁给他们第三颗星。

This marked the first time in the history of the Michelin Guide in France that a non-French chef -- Colagreco is Argentinian -- had won the culinary holy grail of three stars.

这是《米其林指南》在法国历史上首次有非法国厨师(Colagreco是阿根廷人)获得米其林三星烹饪圣杯。

They'll also need to change the number by the 50 Best ranking.

他们还需要改变前50的排位。

Up one level sits the star of the show, the dining room.

更上一层楼便是展览的主角,餐厅。

Even in gloomy December there are breathtaking panoramic views taking in the Mediterranean, the mountains, the town of Menton and the multi-million dollar yachts in its harbor.

即使是在阴冷的12月,在地中海、山脉、芒通镇和港口里价值数百万美元的游艇上,也能看到令人叹为观止的全景。

One can only imagine the effect on a light-filled summer's day, with the blue of the sky rivaling the blue of the water, reaffirming why Mirazur is so named.

人们只能想象,在阳光明媚的夏日里,蔚蓝的天空与湛蓝的海水相媲美,这再次印证了米拉苏尔得名的原因。

Beautiful circular wooden tables are generously spaced apart and free of linen or tablecloths, with some round squash and a white vase of flowers the only decoration.

漂亮的圆形木桌间距很大,没有亚麻或桌布,唯一的装饰是一些圆形壁球和一个白色花瓶。

Wood is the hero through much of the restaurant's design, in tune with Mirazur's embrace of the natural world.

木质元素是餐厅设计的主角,与米拉苏尔对自然世界的拥抱相协调。

Your fellow diners included French, British, Australian, Italian and Mandarin Chinese accents over lunch, while Colagreco's team are similarly multinational, with 14 nationalities represented in 50 staff across the kitchen and front-of-house service teams.

和你一起用餐的还有法国人、英国人、澳大利亚人、意大利人和中国人的口音,而克拉格瑞克的团队也是类似的跨国公司,在厨房和前台服务团队的50名员工中,有14个国家的员工。

They're a wonderful personification of that mix of genuine warmth and utter professionalism.

和我一起用餐的还有法国人、英国人、澳大利亚人、意大利人和中国人的口音,而Colagreco的团队也是类似的跨国公司,在厨房和前台服务团队的50名员工中,有14个国家的员工。

As a solo dinner, they would take extra time to talk to you, explaining dishes and at one point bringing over a beautiful hefty tome written by Colagreco, called simply Mirazur, which celebrates the dozens of farmers, fishermen and producers that supply the restaurant.

作为一顿单独的晚餐,他们会花额外的时间来和你聊天,讲解菜肴,还带来了一本由克莱克瑞格撰写的漂亮的大书,书名就叫米拉苏尔,这本书歌颂了为这家餐厅供货的数十位农民、渔民和生产商。

And the kitchen needs them.

厨房离不开他们。

According to Colagreco, they don't work with just four seasons, but 365.

根据克莱克瑞格的说法,他们不只是四季供应,而是365天都在供应。

This means the menu changes every single day, as a result, Colagreco's regular diners who come three times a week have never had to eat the same dish.

这意味着菜单每天都在变化,因此,每周来三次的常客也从来没有吃过同一道菜。

You essentially leave yourself in the hands of the staff, choose how many courses you'd like, reveal any dislikes or dietary requirements and let them do the rest.

你基本上把自己交给员工,选择你喜欢的课程,透露任何不喜欢的或饮食要求,然后就让他们来做剩下的事情。

There are thankfully, at least for food writers, a handful of dishes which remain more or less constant.

值得庆幸的是,至少对于美食作家来说,有一些菜肴或多或少会保持不变。

Their "sharing bread" is one of them, a round loaf in six pieces that is served in a wooden bowl.

他们的“分享面包”就是其中一种,一种六块的圆形面包,盛在一个木碗里。

It comes with a dish of vibrant yellow olive oil infused with lemon juice -- lemon is undeniably Colagreco's signature ingredient -- along with ginger.

它配有一盘充满活力的黄色橄榄油和柠檬汁——柠檬无疑是克莱克瑞格的标志性成分——以及生姜。

It's also accompanied by a poem from Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, written on a translucent piece of paper, that's dedicated to bread.

它还伴随着智利诗人巴勃罗·聂鲁达的一首诗,这首诗写在半透明的纸上,是献给面包的。

Red beetroot with caviar cream is also one of Colagreco's signatures.

红甜菜根配鱼子酱奶油也是克莱克瑞格的特色之一。

The enormous vegetable is first presented to diners at the table, then cooked in a salt crust before wafer-thin slices are served in a sauce studded with black pearls of caviar.

这种巨大的蔬菜首先被端上餐桌,然后放在盐壳里煮熟,再用点缀着黑珍珠鱼子酱的酱汁切成薄片上桌。

It's a sensational creation of textural and flavor interplay, decadent without being heavy.

这是一个对纹理和风味相互作用的惊人的创造,颓废而不沉重。

Your lunch also included a delicate squid dish that had been blanched and cut very finely, before being served with a refined bagna càuda sauce, in other words with garlic and anchovies.

你的午餐还包括一道精致的鱿鱼菜,在配上精制的巴格纳尾酱(也就是大蒜和凤尾鱼)之前,先经过焯水,切得很细。

There was also an exceptional pigeon dish with a sauce made with coffee.

还有一道特别的特别菜,用咖啡调味。

Amid multiple sweet offerings, chocolate from Peru was crafted beautifully with local olive oil and rosemary powder into a smooth dessert, a union between South American and the Mediterranean ingredients that's typical of much of Colagreco's work.

在多种甜食中,来自秘鲁的巧克力与当地的橄榄油和迷迭香粉完美地结合在一起,做成了一款光滑的甜点,融合了南美和地中海的食材,这是克莱克瑞格大部分作品的特色。

The cheese trolley, an additional charge to most of the menus, is a sight to behold and sorely tempting even after a very substantial lunch.

奶酪手推车是大多数菜单上的额外项目,即使是在吃了一顿丰盛的午餐之后,它也是一道诱人的风景线。

Unsurprisingly, French and Italian cheeses are the heroes, given Mirazur's location right on the France-Italy border.

不出所料,考虑到米拉苏尔位于法意边境,法国和意大利的奶酪是主角。

All this gastronomic innovation and brilliance doesn't come cheap, however.

然而,所有这些美食创新和辉煌并不便宜。

Your lunch with one glass of champagne and two of wine will set you back almost 200 euros or $230.

午餐一杯香槟和两杯葡萄酒将花掉你近200欧元(合230美元)。

While it's a serious amount of money for a meal, you would feel the experience and memories were well worth the investment.

虽然一顿饭要花一大笔钱,但你也会觉得这段经历和回忆非常值得投资。

To better understand what drives Mirazur, I spoke to Ricardo Chaneton, the highly-regarded chef at Petrus at Hong Kong's Island Shangri-La hotel who spent almost seven years working under Colagreco.

为了更好地理解米拉苏尔背后的驱动力,我采访了香港香格里拉酒店备受尊敬的大厨里卡多·查内顿,他在克莱克瑞格手下工作了近7年。

At the World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards ceremony in Singapore, the first thing Colagreco did was ask Chaneton up on stage to join them, calling him one of the "family."

在新加坡举行的全球50家最佳餐厅颁奖典礼上,克莱克瑞格做的第一件事就是邀请查尔顿上台加入他们,称他为“家庭成员”。

Chaneton explained the special experience of working at Mirazur.

查尔顿聊了聊他在米拉苏尔工作的特别经历。

"Mauro is open-minded, he's friendly, a human being with a big heart. I love him so much," he said.

“毛罗思想开放,待人友好,是个心胸开阔的人。我非常爱他,”他说。

"He's authentic, straightforward. When he feels something he shows it and we've shared many, many things and experiences."

“他是很真实的,很直接的。当他感觉到什么,他就会表现出来,我们分享了很多很多事情和经历。”

"Having no menu is what makes it so fun, no meal is ever the same. If you have a recipe, you always risk just going back to what you did last year, last summer.”

“没有菜单让它变得如此有趣,没有一顿饭是一成不变的。如果你有一个食谱,你可能就会冒着回到去年夏天的做法的风险。”

"But not at Mirazur. You move forward. Mauro likes people who say 'why not?' He would always ask me, he'd never say 'we're doing this' -- because he knows that the more you hear from others, the more you learn."

“但在米拉苏尔不是这样。你会不断向前走。毛罗喜欢说'为什么不呢’他总是问我,从来不说'我们在做这件事’——因为他知道,你从别人那里听到的越多,你学到的就越多。”

This sort of open-minded thinking has clearly contributed to Mirazur's success, and reservations are now booking three months ahead.

这种开放的思维显然促成了米拉苏尔的成功,现在预订已经排到三个月后去了。

问题

文中提到了米拉苏尔是什么含义呢?

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